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Zoo-pedia > Brief Care details for the Burmese python

Brief Care details for the Burmese python

By Kevin Stevens - includes precautions and words of caution in keeping such a large snake.

A neonate should be housed in a relatively small vivarium, usually in the form of a plastic tank such as Hagan’s Pal Pens. A generally rule is that the entire length of the snakes body should not be more than the combined length of two sides of the vivarium, a rule which can be followed throughout the snakes life. Heating can be achieved in two ways, by using a heat mat or even by placing the Pal Pen into a larger vivarium heated in the manner described later for larger pythons. A temperature of 30-32°C must be provided in the warmest part of the vivarium during the day. A cooler area must be provided to allow for thermo-regulation. At night this should not drop by more than around 7°C. The heat mat is the most commonly used and can be very successful. The mat is placed on a flat heat resistant material (polystyrene tiles are commonly used) and the Pal Pen placed on top. A quality thermostat should control the temperature given by the heat mat, and no more than half of the vivarium should be heated – some authorities suggest limiting this to a third. If incorrectly used the heat may cause burns, this is often due to thick layers of vivarium floor covering (does not allow the heat to escape – known as thermal blocking). Manufacturers are now stating that the mat must be placed on the back or side of the vivarium, but in practice it rarely will perform correctly in this position. In conjunction with a heat mat placed under the vivarium, if the vivarium is not kept clean, ventral scale rot (necrotic dermatitis) is common.

Artificial lighting is best avoided, many pythons become poor feeders in bright light. Some keepers prefer to give artificial lighting and provide a photoperiod (i.e different day lengths varying to the season), but unless breeding is to be attempted this is rarely found to be beneficial in their day to day upkeep.

Floor covering is best provided in the form of kitchen towel or newspaper for neonates. It is possible that their small size would not allow for the clear passage of any accidentally swallowed “chipping” type of floor covering resulting in an intestinal blockage. Hides and a water pot large enough for bathing as well as drinking must be provided. Provide fresh drinking water daily, and ensure the python is not allowed to bath excessively. Keep vivarium relatively dry to avoid skin blister disease, but it is advantageous to provide a more humid hide area within the vivarium. This helps with poor feeding responses as well as when it is time to shed their skin. Food is best offered in the form of appropriate sized dead rodents. Day old rats (known as rat pups) are ideal, and should be offered at the rate of two or three every 5 days or so. Never use live rodents, it is not ethical and they may actually injure the python.

As the python grows its vivarium must be larger too. During the lifetime of a python, it may live in, and out grow of several vivariums, the rule mentioned earlier should be adhered to. Heat mats are best avoided with medium and large individuals due to the increased risk of health problems. The heating requirements are best provided now with a ceramic heater mounted in the roof of the vivarium. This too must be connected to a quality thermostat. In very large vivaria additional ceramics may be required along with perhaps a tubular heater. These heaters are very powerful and must be protected with a well made mesh guard to prevent burns. Similar temperatures mentioned earlier are ideal, respiratory ailments and chills are common otherwise. Wooden constructed vivaria are best suited and must be well made to withstand housing such powerful snakes. Safety glass must be fitted, cage locks are recommended. When considering the captive care of this species consideration must be made for the large accommodation a full grown adult will require. A small room is ideal, perhaps the size of an average spare “box” bedroom. Ensure the design of the vivarium includes a glass window that provides viewing before the door is opened. This way you can be certain where the large python is situated before entering the room. Floor coverings include newspaper and orchid bark. Similar, but larger provisions, i.e. water bowl, hides etc, must be catered for. Remember the importance of a dry vivarium, but provide a humid area.

Food should now be offered less frequently, say every 10 to 14 days in similar amounts mentioned, but with appropriate sized rodents. A two metre long python will take a medium sized rat, a full grown one easily manages large adult rats and are best catered with adult rabbits and even day old piglets.

During the lifetime of the python simple measures should be taken for its well being. Daily maintenance is required in the form of vivarium spot cleaning (removal of faecal matter, sloughed skins, etc), fresh water, temperature check and a health check. Check for signs of chills and respiratory problems (mouth gaping, froth or bubbling of saliva through mouth or nostrils), when sloughing all areas of skin come off (especially around and including the eyes, and around the tail tip) and general alertness.

Less intensive upkeep includes weekly sterilisation of vivarium, water bowls and other furnishings. Regular checks on the build quality of the housing vivarium should stop escape routes, and a re-vamp of the heating system for electrical safety is advisable.

To conclude it must be said that the Burmese python does not make a good captive subject. Most keepers cannot cater for their large adult size (6 metres plus). A snake of this size in the wrong hands can spell disaster.